What happened next was I tried to, cleverly, fill some gaps. . .
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| I tried to tuck this cable back behind the backseat but its to stiff, now the back canopy won't close completly. I might pull it out and use some soft fiberlgass braid and post soak it with thinned wihte glue to help it hold its form. | |
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| I added some magnet wire to the inside of the braided nylon hosing, this provides some rigidty to help hold it in place over the gaps, I may add another piece to actually bring power from the middle of the ship to here, or vice versa, depending on how the ship will be displayed (in flight or landed). | ||
| I soaked some super glue in the ends of this Braided nylon tubing to prevent it from unravelling. |
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| I put a hook at each end of the wire/hose to help prevent the braid from sliding off while I was working it in place. | ||
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Here's the new backseat gap filling hosing, and two holes that will accept some pins to help secure the new back canopy hinge. |
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| Front seat gaps. | |
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| The right gap is tricked out with some semi rigid mini RF cable. | |
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Left gap filled with this braded wire RF seal. |
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| I trimmed the right gap hose, since it felt like the front canopy was preventing it from fully closing, the homemade hinge is generating some of this. | |
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| A big gap in the front, I think it recieved the canopy's catch in the original toy configuration. | |
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| After filling the front gap or other activities, I discovered I'd managed to mush the H.U.D. here I found some Electronic SMD parts and built up the right support its styrene slat was still there bearly so I could easily beef it up. I wish I'd made sure they were striaghter. |
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| Scary Hack, had to pull of the landing gear, and drill out a prominant spot in the engine(s) seen here. I started with a tiny hole in the dome that's in the enigne, but I could see the hole from the other hole I drilled in the back of the landing gear bay, so I could'nt lace the wires until I opened up that hole. In retrospect if the led strip could have been stuck in the engine cones before gluing them in place, and then little holes drilled right at the edge of where the cone sits, all wiring would be invisible, also it would be much easier to get the LED strip in place and equal distance. I had to cut a 2 inch section out and put short jumpers between it and the other stirp to get it in place. Also Since I needed descret wires I used magent wire, which you scrap to strip the coating and of coarse this weekends the wire where you have to solder it the leads broke off while tyring to get the strip tucked up in place. While trying to get in there to r esolder it, well the engine cone took some damage on the lip. | |
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| Help Joe's cutting me up! | Test Firing the right engine. |