Traveling Model Project, Team Euro's Tsunami

September 10th, 2007

My frist intention was to install white back lighting to the clear console added to the back seat

3 Surface Mount Technology white LEDs are white glued upsidedown to the console edges. Another shot of the SMT LEDs in place.
3 Surface Mount Technology white LEDs are white glued upsidedown to the console (top) edges.
I used me dremel and a tiny drill bit to drill through the side of the ship in a strategic spot.  A gribbly was used all over the model.  It's the one with three holes, the middle one offcenter.  See the noted picture, I also marked where the SMT LEDs are.
the stealth wire hookup, works if the ship will be landed or taking fire right on this spot. Here's a little mark where the drill bit popped through the Side wall skin.
Here we see the little mark where the drill bit popped through the Side wall skin.
The stealth wire hookup, works if the ship will be landed or taking fire right on this spot.  Looking closely you see that hte cetner hole is dark, since it now passes through the ship, while the other 2 shows some white, which is the chassis color behind the gribbly.  A pair of thin wires bundled in some chain or braid can be used as a diagnostics cable or air/fuel tube. Alternately a laser/missile impact point could be used with appropriate cotton or fiber optic plumage.
Closeup on the top of the console with LEDs glued in place.
These LEDs don't look supper bright, so I'll add three more along the bottom of the console.  However the bottom lip is very narrow.
Three more of these LEDs will get glued to the bottom of the console.
Here I've wired 3 SMT LEDs in a daisy chain (wants 12 volts when I add a resistor) using some circuit board trace repair tape.  Two wires will bring the 12 volt buss up to the 3 LEDs [and 1 resistor] on the top of the console
Here I've wired 3 SMT LEDs in a daisy chain (wants 12 volts) using some circuit board trace repair tape.
Here I've white glued a single SMT LED to the back canopie, I removed it later though.
Here I've white glued a single SMT LED to the back canopie, I removed it later though. . .And re-attached it with super glue. 		Rear canopy booklight super glued in place.
Now the Rear canopy booklight's super glued inplace.
Here's a good shot of the re-glued back canopie booklight.
Here I've super glued a single SMT LED to the front canopie.
Here I've super glued a single SMT LED to the front canopie. Here's a single SMT LED super glued to the front canopie.>

Quick review of the unlit console.

Note that the room is bright so a lot of light enters the console edges and escapes at the unmasked dials, this will change when/if the console edges get coated say with black CA.
Also, as with most masking systems, removal of the mask as soon as one can after painting helps prevent paint from coming up with the mask material, you can see here where some of the dial faces and square monitor edging, lost paint when the orange mask was removed.
A Look at the unlight wired console. Another Look at the unlight wired console.
A look at the unlight wired console..
Closeup of the wired LEDs they need a resistor to work at 12 volts. right side Closeup of the wired console SMT LEDs.
Closeup's of the wired console SMT LEDs, they will need another SMT LEd or a resistor to run at 12 volts.

Here's an easy edition for those wanting lighting FX:

A spot light and a trimed LED panel mount fit in a hole that was left open. I went with a 'straw hat' LED which is a shorter lense that allows the beam to spread.
   A spot light and a trimed LED panel mount fit in a hole that was left open.  I went with a 'straw hat' LED which is a shorter lense that allows the beam to spread.  If it were still a toy an LED with more of a beam would be fun but being on a model it will just blind the judges.

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